Flores is such an underrated island in Indonesia. You can climb volcanoes, visit traditional villages, see turquoise lakes, and so much more.
Lots of people go to Flores to see the nearby Komodo National Park, but the rest of the place is basically uncharted. It’s a big island that’s full of hidden gems.
We’ve visited Flores many times over the years, and each time we discover new things to see and do there. If you enjoy adventure travel and wild scenery, it’s one of the top places to visit in Indonesia.
This guide will explain the best itinerary to use for a road trip from Labuan Bajo to Maumere, and everything in between!
Where To Start This Itinerary
The starting point for this itinerary is the fishing town of Labuan Bajo, in western Flores.
Bajo is the gateway to the nearby Komodo islands, and it has an international airport (LBJ) with daily flights from Bali, Jakarta, and Kuala Lumpur for very reasonable prices.
If you prefer, you can also do this whole itinerary in reverse, by flying to Maumere or Ende, and then driving west to Labuan Bajo from there.
How To Get Around In Flores
Aside from the Komodo islands, which are visited by boat, basically everything else in Flores is reached by driving overland.
It’s a long island and things are very spread out, but the Trans-Flores road connects the island pretty well.
Your options for getting around are to rent a scooter and drive yourself, hire a private driver with a car, or take a bus between the main towns.
Either way, Flores has a lot of bumpy, curvy, and broken roads, so every drive takes longer than it looks on the map.
One thing I like about this is that it keeps the drivers from going too crazy fast; the bumpy roads are like a hidden safety feature. 🙂
Renting a scooter in Flores is cheap, flexible, and fun, but the main limitation is that it’s challenging to drive on some of the bad roads. This island is also way too big for it in my opinion.
Bus travel in Flores is offered by Gunung Mas, and it’s comfortable and affordable. The only negative is that it’s not flexible for seeing things off the beaten path; it just connects the main towns. You can book rides with the company directly, or ask your hotel to book it for you.
My favorite way to explore Flores is in a private car with a driver. It’s much safer and more convenient than driving everywhere on a scooter, so I think the extra cost is worth it if you can fit it in your budget.
Day 1: Komodo Islands Boat Tour
The best way to begin your trip in Flores is by visiting the legendary Komodo islands, where you can see beaches, exotic landscapes, and Komodo dragons.
People normally spend 1 to 3 days in the islands. One day on a speedboat is enough time to see the main highlights, but you may prefer to stay in a liveaboard boat where you sleep on the ship and explore things at a slower pace.
In any case, the only way to visit the Komodo islands is on a boat tour from Labuan Bajo. You can look for a tour provider near the harbor when you arrive, or you can book it in advance online.
I’ve included some tour recommendations below. Now, let’s talk about what to see there!
- Kelor Island
Start your boat tour of the Komodo islands by visiting Kelor, a small island with a hill you can climb for nice views of Flores. It’s a short but steep hike to the top.
You can also make a stop at Manjarite beach for some snorkeling, or you might stop at one or two of the islands nearby like Sebayur, Kanawa, or Bidadari.
- Kalong Island
End the day by anchoring your boat near Kalong, a tiny island with a colony of fruit bats.
At sunset every evening, you can see thousands of bats flying through the sky here as they head out in search of food. They’re harmless, but it’s amazing to watch!
Day 2: More Of The Komodo Islands
- Padar Island
Wake up early on the second day and sail to Padar, a small island with a must see viewpoint. It’s one of the most famous photo spots in Southeast Asia.
To get to the top, you have to hike about 30 minutes and brave the crowds. This one’s a gem, but it’s anything but hidden.
Tons of people come here every day because it’s easy to reach and the scenery is just amazing.
- Pink Beach
Another good place to see in Komodo is the pink sand beach.
The color comes from tiny organisms in the coral called foraminifera. Very cool and unique!
There are actually several pink beaches in the park, but the one with the brightest color is hidden in a bay on the northwest side of Padar island.
- Komodo / Rinca Island
Of course one of the main attractions at Komodo National Park is getting to see the dragons! This is the only place in the world where you can see them in the wild.
For this part of the tour, you’ll go ashore at one of the two main islands where the dragons live, Rinca or Komodo island, and do a short trek looking for dragons while accompanied by a park ranger. The trekking path is flat and suitable for all fitness levels.
You’re almost guaranteed to see at least a few dragons (after all, Komodo is their home), and with the guide’s help you can even take pictures with them! It’s an amazing experience getting to see these animals up close.
Day 3: Return From Komodo
For your last day in the Komodo islands, visit Taka Makassar, a small crescent-shaped sandbar with perfect white sand and crystal clear water.
Next, go snorkeling at either Manta Point or Turtle Point. The latter has sea turtles, while the former has giant manta rays. They’re a little shy but not dangerous at all.
When the boat tour is finished, you’ll head back to Labuan Bajo where you started. You can find hotels and accommodation in Labuan Bajo to suit all budgets, from backpacker to luxury.
Day 4: Sights Near Labuan Bajo
- Goa Rangko Cave
Goa Rangko is a neat little limestone cave near Labuan Bajo that has a bright blue pool where you can swim.
The only catch with this cave is that it’s more impressive when the sun is right. On a cloudy day, the cave is dark and you can’t really see the blue color of the pool, so it’s not as amazing.
Reaching the cave requires a short drive from town and then a quick boat ride up the coast. Along the way, there’s a fun little sandbar in the sea where you can land the boat.
- Cunca Wulang Waterfall
This is a waterfall near Labuan Bajo with multiple cascades in a nice little rock canyon.
It’s approximately 1 hour from town by driving, and then a 20 minute walk to get to the falls.
The only downside is that they make you hire a guide, and it’s a bit overpriced.
- Cunca Rami Waterfall
This is another nice waterfall near Labuan Bajo that you can reach by driving approximately 1.5 hours from town.
Cunca Rami is a big waterfall and it’s surrounded by rice paddies and other wonderful scenery. The hike down to the falls is moderate and takes about 45 minutes in each direction.
I think it’s a good idea to hire a local guide to show you the way, but try to negotiate the price if it seems unreasonable at first.
Day 5: Trek To Wae Rebo
Now it’s time to leave Labuan Bajo and explore some areas of Flores that are deeper inland, starting with Wae Rebo.
This traditional village in the mountains requires a 4 or 5 hour drive from Labuan Bajo, and then a 2 hour hike to reach, but it’s worth it.
The hike isn’t too hard and most people should be able to do it without any issues. You can leave your luggage at one of the homestays in Denge or Dintor, near the starting point for the hike, that way you don’t have to carry all of it with you.
When you get to Wae Rebo, you can stay overnight in one of the huts, and meals are provided. It’s a fun and unique experience, even though the place is getting a bit touristy.
The scenery is amazing! The cone-shaped huts are great for photos, and they’re surrounded by lush, green mountains on all sides.
Day 6: Return From Wae Rebo
After waking up for the sunrise and eating breakfast at Wae Rebo, you can hang around and explore the village a bit more.
By late morning, most of the tourists leave and you’ll probably have the place all to yourself for awhile.
When you’re ready, it’s time to head back down the trail. Going back is quicker and easier because most of it is flat or downhill, although it can be a bit slippery.
When you get back to Denge, go get cleaned up at your homestay of choice, and get some rest. Tomorrow is another big day!
I stayed the night at Jose Homestay, which is very basic, but it overlooks the beach and it’s perfectly located near Wae Rebo and Nuca Molas, which you’ll visit next. The owner, Jose, is super helpful even though he barely speaks English.
Another option is Wae Rebo Lodge, which is located near Dintor as well, but their prices are higher.
Day 7: Nuca Molas Island + Drive To Ruteng
Spend your next day visiting Nuca Molas, a little island near the coast of Flores that’s been compared to Jurassic Park because of its wild and exotic scenery.
You can actually see this island from the coast, and it’s reachable in just half an hour by boat from Dintor. You can take a boat directly from Jose Homestay, or go to the little harbor in Dintor village.
The scenery at Nuca Molas is spectacular, and you can climb the lighthouse or hike one of the hills for better views of the mountain in the middle of the island.
There’s also a bat cave and several nice white sand beaches to explore. Plan to spend half a day here.
After Nuca Molas, head back to the homestay and get cleaned up, and then drive to Ruteng. This will take about 3 hours by car because of the bumpy roads.
Ruteng is a decent size town with several good homestays and restaurants. Compared to Wae Rebo and Dintor, it feels like a comfortable metropolis.
I recommend Mama’s Homestay in Ruteng as a great place to eat and sleep. The rooms are good and the staff are helpful if you need transport or anything else.
Day 8: Ruteng Sights + Drive To Bajawa
There are several good things to see in the Ruteng area, such as the Lingko ‘spider web’ rice terraces, the Tengkulese waterfall, and the Liang Bua ‘Hobbit’ cave.
Unfortunately these places are all northwest of town, so they require a bit of backtracking.
I woke up early in the morning with my driver and we went to the ‘spider web’ rice terraces first. They’re 30 minutes from Ruteng and the roads are good.
These terraces got their name from the unique patterns that look like a spider’s web. Early morning lighting is especially good for photos, and with 10 minutes of walking you can reach the top of a nice viewpoint looking over the fields.
When I was there, the fields were yellow and ready for harvest, but if you catch them earlier in the season, they’re bright green!
Next, we went to the Tengkulese waterfall. This drive was more of a hassle, and took about 1 hour because the roads are so rough and bumpy.
It was worth it, though, because the waterfall is one of my favorites in Indonesia. It’s a big waterfall with two separate cascades.
Actually, this whole area near Ruteng is amazing. There are mountains and rice terraces in all directions.
If you want a bit of adventure, you can do a short hike to the base of the Tengkulese waterfall to get up close and feel the mist. If you’re lucky, you might also see a big rainbow, like I did.
It’s an adventure though, because you have to climb a slippery bamboo ladder and some mossy rocks to reach the waterfall.
Go slow and be careful. I did it in sandals and I have to say it was a bit sketchy.
After this, I grabbed brunch in Ruteng with my driver and then we spent the rest of the day driving to Bajawa.
It takes almost 5 hours to drive to Bajawa from Ruteng, so this part of the journey is a whopper! The roads are mostly in good condition, although there are some winding sections that slow you down a bit.
Bajawa is another decent size town with plenty of restaurant and hotel options.
Day 9: Sights Around Bajawa
Spend your first day in Bajawa seeing places near the town.
There are a bunch of good things to see in this area, including traditional villages, waterfalls, and volcanic lakes.
- Avatar Hill Viewpoint
Start the morning by seeing the viewpoint of the Inerie volcano.
This is called Avatar Hill or ‘Watu Nari Wowo’ and it’s just a 15 minute drive from town that gives you incredible views of the volcano up close.
You can reach the top of the viewpoint in only 15-30 minutes of hiking, and it’s one of the best things I’ve seen anywhere in Indonesia!
It’s important to get here early in the morning, because clouds usually cover the volcano for most of the day. If you get here too late, you won’t see anything at all.
- Bena Village
Next, visit the traditional village of Bena, which is a 20 or 30 minute drive from Bajawa.
This is a picturesque village at the foot of Mount Inerie, with views of the same, and the locals still live in the huts with help from the government. It’s not just an open air museum.
There’s an entrance fee that helps pay for the upkeep of the village, and they give you a welcome scarf to wear temporarily while you walk around the village. It’s an interesting place to see.
- Tololela Village
Tololela is another traditional village hidden in the hills above Bajawa. This one is a 15 minute drive from Bena on bumpy jungle roads, and it has less tourists.
Out of all the villages we visited near Bajawa, this was probably my favorite. The village sits on a hill surrounded by palm trees and amazing views of the mountains.
There’s a small entrance fee in the form of a donation, and then you’re free to wander the village as you please.
- Ogi Waterfall
This is a waterfall near Bajawa town that you can reach with 15 minutes of driving and then 10 minutes of walking on a flat path.
I had mixed feelings about this place because the waterfall is nice, but the area around it has been turned into an ugly power plant. There’s a fence and concrete surrounding the waterfall and you can’t swim.
I still think it’s worth a visit just because it’s easy to reach and not far from town.
Day 10: Hike Mount Inerie
If you’re a hiker looking for something epic to do in Flores, you can climb the Inerie volcano near Bajawa.
It’s the tallest volcano on the island, and it might just be one of the most symmetrical volcanoes in the world. At sunrise, it casts a perfect shadow like a natural pyramid.
This is a challenging hike that takes about 3 hours to reach the top, and you have to start very early in the morning to get the best views of the sunrise.
I know you’re probably already tired at this point in the itinerary, but Inerie is honestly one of the best things I’ve done in Flores. It would be sad to miss it!
I hired a local guide from Bajawa for this hike, and I would highly recommend doing the same.
- Natural Hot Springs
After hiking, a great way to relax sore muscles is at the natural hot springs near Bajawa.
There are two different places with hot springs: you can go to Mangeruda, which is a 30 minute drive northeast of Bajawa town, or there’s also one at Malanage, which is 15 minutes south of Bena village.
I’d recommend the hot spring at Malanage because I like the jungle scenery better. There’s a small entrance fee to swim, but it’s the perfect way to unwind after a big hike.
Day 11: Drive To Ende
Here comes another day of driving! This time it takes up to 5 hours to drive from Bajawa to the next destination, the town of Ende.
Along the way, you can stop at Blue Stone Beach, a nice beach covered with bright blue rocks. There are several good cafes along the coast too if you want to stop for lunch.
Sadly some of the locals have been collecting and selling the blue rocks from the beach, so no one knows how long it will still be colorful.
When you reach Ende, there are plenty of hotel options and even an airport. Get settled in and rested up for another big day tomorrow.
Day 12: Kelimutu Lakes + Drive To Maumere
Now it’s time for the grand finale of our road trip through Flores: the volcanic lakes of Mount Kelimutu!
From Ende, it’s a 2 or 3 hour drive to the gates of this national park, followed by an easy 15-30 minute hike to reach the lakes.
People usually like to go to Kelimutu early in the morning to see the sunrise, but I don’t think that’s really necessary. The lakes look just as good when the sun is shining on them, in my opinion, and you can avoid the worst crowds by skipping sunrise.
Either way, the lakes are amazing. There are three of them, and depending on the underlying gases and elements, the color of the lakes can change to blue, green, red, or black.
When we went there, the twin lakes were electric blue and almost didn’t look real!
When you’re done at Kelimutu, you can either retrace your route back to Ende and fly home from there (connecting in Labuan Bajo), or you can keep going east to the city of Maumere and fly from there.
There’s roughly the same amount of driving either way, so you’ll probably want to base your decision on which airport has the best flight options for you.
If you drive to Maumere, you can stop along the way at Koka Beach as a nice bonus. It has twin beaches with white sand, blue water, and picturesque hills all around.
Thus ends our road trip through the island of Flores!